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Buda and Pest: two cities for the price of one, and with a fabled river, the Danube, in between. Bustling Pest has historical treasures from its Habsburg and Jewish past, while verdant, hilly Buda is a hiker’s heaven. Although Hungary joined the European Union in 2004, its capital retains an eastern mystique, with twisty old streets lined with beautiful architecture.

Every visitor to Budapest walks along the River Danube, and for good reason: liquid history flows below and spectacular views greet you at every turn. On the west bank is Buda, on the east Pest. Pest’s street layout features Habsburg-style ring roads, joined by important spokes, such as Andrássy út, the tree-lined boulevard that begins next to the monument to the nation’s leaders at Heroes’ Square (Hösök tere). Further up is the House of Terror, a sobering museum about oppression in a building once used by Nazis and, later, the communist secret police. Continue downtown to find the opulent Opera House, built in 1884 by Miklós Ybl, and the Basilica, named after St Stephen, whose mummified right hand is inside.

On the river, three blocks from the Basilica, is the Chain Bridge (1873), the first permanent crossing between Buda and Pest. The Buda side of the bridge is at the foot of the main tourist sights of Castle Hill. On the hill, the Royal Palace complex houses the vast Hungarian National Gallery and the National Library. Just a few minutes walk from the Palace are Matthias Church and Fishermen’s Bastion offering superb views of the city.

A few blocks north of the Chain Bridge, on the Pest side, is the Parliament building. This structure, along with much of central Pest, was built in the late 19th century, during Hungary’s heyday as a partner in the dual monarchy with Austria.

Other periods have clearly influenced the look of the city, including the period of Habsburg domination, when the castle district was built, and the 16th-century Ottoman occupation, which produced Turkish baths like Király or Rudas, both recently renovated.

Budapest is one of the richest cities in the world in terms of thermal and spa waters. Bathing in some of the hot springs of the Buda side can date back to the Celts and the Romans. Missing out on the baths of Budapest is like not visiting the Eiffel tower while in Paris. The only difference is that while one usually visits the Eiffel tower only once, the spas in Budapest will probably keep you coming back for years to come.